Column Reprint: Cook Well, Eat Well - Quiche

I wrote this column last spring, right around this time. Eggs should be cheap again within a week or two, so a reprint seemed in order. You'll notice this isn't a strictly low carb column, but the recipe sure is, if you use the recipe for Almond-Parmesan crust:

As I write this, I have a dozen cartons of eggs in my refrigerator. Why? Because they were three cartons for a buck. At that price, we can eat a lot of eggs! We like them fried, scrambled, and in omelets. But to turn eggs into supper, there's nothing like quiche.

Thanks to the French name, and the 1980s book "Real Men Don't Eat Quiche," quiche has a reputation as foofy girly food. Hah! Quiche is simply egg-and-cheese pie, often with ham or bacon thrown in. That's some solid eating. It's easy to make, infinitely variable, and reheats well. What's not to love?

Some people are afraid of the cholesterol in eggs and cheese. They needn't be. As I pointed out in my previous column about cholesterol, even the Harvard School of Public Health has concluded, "...the amount of cholesterol eaten has little impact on the amount of cholesterol circulating in the blood."

I have no problems with saturated fat; my blood work tells me so. If you are a "saturated fat responder"- a person who reacts to saturated fats with high cholesterol levels - use reduced fat cheese in your quiche. Eggs are not a major source of saturated fat.

Crusts can be problematic. I make crusts from ground almonds and Parmesan cheese. This is higher in calories than a regular pie crust, but lower carb and more nutritious. If you can tolerate carbs, make a pie shell using whole wheat pastry flour. Don't use a store-bought crust or mix -- they're made with refined flour, and also often use hydrogenated shortening. You can also make crustless quiche, which is, of course, the lowest carb-and-calorie option!

Once you've figured out the crust, the filling is simple, yet endlessly variable:

* Bottom layer: 6-8 ounces of shredded cheese. Gruyere or Swiss are traditional, but Cheddar, Havarti, Monterey Jack, even mozzarella will work fine.

* Top Layer: For traditional Quiche Lorraine, add 6-8 slices cooked, crumbled bacon - regular or turkey. Thawed, drained chopped spinach with sauteed mushrooms and onion is wonderful. Try thawed frozen broccoli plus diced lean ham. Flaked crab and minced scallions are nice, or even a drained can of tuna. Crumbled, cooked Italian sausage, peppers and onions would be good with mozzarella. Drained canned tomatoes with green chilies are a natural with Monterey jack.

* Egg Mixture: Whisk together 5 large eggs and a cup of milk. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

* Seasonings depend on your filling - 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard is good in Quiche Lorraine (Swiss cheese with bacon), spinach and mushroom, or broccoli and ham quiche. I often add 2 tablespoons of dry vermouth or white wine. Italian seasoning and garlic go with mozzarella and Italian sausage. Try dill weed with crab. Use cumin, garlic, and oregano for a Southwestern flavor. Whisk seasonings into the egg and milk, and pour over the filling. Bake for 45 minutes at 350.

I came up with this quiche to use the spring baby asparagus:

Asparagus Quiche

Crust of your choice (or none)

1/4 cup minced shallots
2 teaspoons olive oil
2/3 pound asparagus, thin spears
8 ounces gruyere or swiss cheese, regular or low fat, shredded
5 large eggs
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons dry vermouth or dry white wine (omit if you like)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

Preheat oven to 350.

If you're using a crust, have it ready first. Regular pastry needn't be prebaked. If you're not using a crust, spray a 14" pie plate well with non-stick cooking spray.

Start your shallots sauteing in the olive oil over medium-low heat. Snap the ends off your asparagus where it breaks naturally. Cut into 1/2" lengths.

Make an even layer of the cheese in the prepared pie plate or crust. Top with the asparagus.

Whisk together the eggs, milk, vermouth or wine, if using, salt, pepper, thyme, and the sauteed shallots. Pour over the cheese and asparagus.

Bake for 45 minutes, or until slightly puffed and lightly golden. Serve hot!

8 servings, using full-fat cheese and milk, but no crust: 195 Calories; 13g Fat; 14g Protein; 5g Carbohydrate; trace Dietary Fiber, 5 g usable carb.

8 servings, using reduced fat cheese and 2% milk, no crust: 135 Calories; 6g Fat; 14g Protein; 5g Carbohydrate; trace Dietary Fiber; 5 grams usable carb.

Almond-Parmesan Crust

1 cup shelled almonds
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons butter, melted
1 tablespoon water

In your food processor, using the S-blade, grind the almonds until they're the texture of cornmeal. Add the Parmesan cheese, and pulse to combine. Pour in the butter and the water, and run the processor until a uniform dough is formed -- you may need to stop the processor and run a butter knife around the bottom edge of the processor bowl halfway through.

Turn out into a 14" pie plate you've sprayed with non-stick cooking spray. Press into an even layer over the bottom and up the sides. Bake at 350 for about 10-12 minutes. Cool before filling.

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8 servings: 158 Calories; 15g Fat; 5g Protein; 4g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 2 grams usable carb.

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