More About Latkes -- Column Reprint
When one is operating at a disadvantage –– say, a total lack of first-hand experience –– it’’s best to admit it up front. So here it is: Not being Jewish, I’’m at something of a loss writing about Hanukkah cookery. But since when have I ever let a little thing like that stop me? I certainly can cook, and as both a librarian’’s daughter and a librarian’’s wife, I know a bit about research, too. So I’’ll forge ahead, do my best, and try not to go too far out on a limb.
Hanukkah is the Jewish ““Festival of Lights,”” commemorating a miracle that occurred during the rededication of the Temple in Jerusalem. The Temple had been seized and used for alien worship. After cleaning and repairing the temple, they wished to relight the Eternal Light, which, once lit, should not be allowed to go out. There was only one day’s worth of lamp oil, yet the light burned for eight days, affording time for a new supply of oil to be obtained.
Because of this miracle of the oil, the main focus of Hanukkah cooking is the use of oil. And of all the foods of Hanukkah, perhaps the most traditional is latkes –– potato pancakes.
This poses a dilemma for those of us who rely on carbohydrate restriction not only to control our weight, but to keep our blood sugar stable and control our insulin release. Potatoes are not a refined carbohydrate, and do have some vitamins and fiber, but also have a very high glycemic index –– depending on the variety, generally between 75 and 110. This, plus a high total carbohydrate count, gives potatoes a high glycemic load.
Some of you are thinking, “Who cares? It’s a holiday! Eat the darned latkes, and diet tomorrow.” That’s fine if you don’t have serious trouble with carbs –– diabetes, hypoglycemia, metabolic syndrome, or just serious carb addiction. If you’re generally healthy, by all means, have a treat.
But I know that taking on a big load of carbs, especially high impact carbs, makes me feel rotten, and for many it’s a serious medical issue. Those of us who really need to or prefer to keep our glycemic load low at all times will benefit from a more carb-modest alternative.
I came up with a reduced carb version of latkes a few years ago, and my pal Barbo Gold, a Jewish cook of no small ability, tried the recipe and pronounced me a “latke maven.” However, that recipe used a product called “Ketatoes” –– a reduced carb instant mashed potato mix –– that is no longer on the market. So I decided to come up with new version. In this recipe, shredded cauliflower and turnip dilute the high-impact carbohydrate of the potato.
You’ll notice that the recipe analysis lacks a calorie count. That’s because it’s hard to know how much oil the latkes absorb. Of course, olive oil is among the healthiest of fats, and anyway, as I’ve already mentioned, cooking with plenty of oil is the heart of Hanukkah food tradition! However, since the cauliflower and the turnip are both far lower in calories than potatoes, you can count on these latkes being lower calorie than the usual, as well.
And need I say it? You don’t have to be Jewish to enjoy these! My husband and I love them.
Latkes
1 cup shredded cauliflower
1 cup shredded turnip
1 cup shredded potato
1 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
2 tablespoons rice protein
2 tablespoons whole wheat flour
1 medium onion, grated
1/2 teaspoon pepper
Olive oil for frying
Shred your cauliflower, turnip, and potato on the shredding blade of your food processor. Combine the three in a bowl, and sprinkle the salt over them, stirring it in well. Let the salted vegetables sit for at least an hour, and two won't hurt.
Come back to your shredded vegetables, and dump them into a strainer. Using clean hands, squeeze all the moisture you can out of them. Put them back in the bowl.
Grate your onion, and add it to the cauliflower/turnip/potato mixture. Now add the eggs, rice protein, whole wheat flour, and pepper. Using a whisk or a fork, stir everything together until it's all well-combined.
Put your large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium high heat. Give it a squirt of non-stick cooking spray first, if you like. Then add olive oil to a depth of about 1/2". Let it heat until a tiny bit of the latke mixture sizzles when dropped in. Spoon in the batter, about 2 tablespoons per latke. Fry until well-browned on both sides -- maybe 5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and keep warm an oven set on low, if you like.
Serve with sour cream or no-sugar-added apple sauce; either or both is traditional –– although they’’re swell plain!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
16 latkes, each with: 3g Protein; 4g Carbohydrate; 1g Dietary Fiber;3 grams usable carb.
Note: Rice protein powder –– I use Nutribiotic brand –– is available at health food stores, but you may use another 2 tablespoons of whole wheat flour if you prefer.
